Stillwind Camp is named for the hour before sunrise, when the wind drops away completely and you can hear a lark land in a bush thirty metres off. Twelve campsites are spaced along a line of old camel thorn trees at the foot of a gravel ridge, each with its own shade, braai, tap, power point and a stone ablution hut with a hot shower, flushing toilet and basin. Six canvas tents on raised decks sit a little apart for those who would rather not pitch anything at all.
It is a practical base for the dunes. Sesriem gate is 6 km away, which matters when the gate opens at sunrise and everyone heads for the first light at Sossusvlei. From here you are through the gate in ten minutes and can be on top of Dune 45 while the shadows are still long. Behind the camp there is only the Ombara Dune Reserve: no other lights, no generator noise and no neighbouring lodge.
The heart of camp is a small stone building with a shop, a bar that opens at 17:00 and a pool in a walled yard. The shop sells firewood, ice, eggs, bread baked each morning, and Ombara Farm boerewors and steaks, along with the basics everyone forgets. Every pitch is level, firm and raked, and rooftop tents are welcome on all of them. On clear nights a ranger gives a free star talk at the fire at the edge of camp.
Twelve sites of about 200 m² for up to two vehicles and eight people, each under a camel thorn, with a private ablution hut (hot shower, flushing toilet, basin), a braai with grid, a tap, a 220 V power point, a light and a stone table with benches.
The ground suits rooftop tents and ground tents alike. Firewood and ice are sold at the shop.
Six walk-in safari tents on timber decks, each about 24 m², with two single beds or a double made up with linen, bedside lamps, a small en-suite shower and toilet at the back, and a front deck with two chairs.
Beside each tent a covered outdoor kitchen has a two-plate gas stove, a fridge, a sink, pots, crockery and a braai. You bring the food.
Rates and live availability are on the Ombara booking engine. Ask the Windhoek team and they reply with both.
Ride in our open vehicle from camp to the gate as it opens, then 60 km into the park to the 4x4 car park at Sossusvlei. A guide walks you into Deadvlei, explains how the dunes formed and why the trees died, and drives you back by early afternoon. Coffee and a packed breakfast included.
A short, shady walk through Sesriem Canyon, about 1 km long and up to 30 m deep, cut by the Tsauchab River through layers of pebbly conglomerate. The guide explains the name: early travellers needed six lengths of leather rope, ses riem, to haul water up from its pools.
On every clear night a ranger lights a small fire at the edge of camp and the camp lights go off for an hour. Lie back on the sand for a tour of the southern sky with a laser pointer, then take turns at the telescope.
A guided quad-bike ride on marked sandy tracks across the Ombara Dune Reserve, never on the dunes themselves, out to a lookout over the gravel plains and back. The bikes are automatic and a short lesson comes first.
6 km north of Sesriem on the C19, Ombara Dune Reserve, Hardap Region, Namibia
24.4475° S, 15.8021° E
Getting there: Ombara Shuttle and Ombara Drive 4x4s both reach most of our lodges. Ask the team for the best route from where you are.
Tell us your dates and group. We come back with availability and a sensible way to get there.
